Seat
Aft
I believe
this to be more important than seat height as long as your seat is too low not
high. The most popular method in the world at the moment for seat aft position
is the vertical line through the pedal spindle (knee method) explained
below, however this occasionally just doesn't seem to get it right. Chris Salisbury
who is one of my personal training masters and is one of our famous old school
professional riders who is still very quick for a guy in his early 50's, can look
at a rider and see what needs to be changed and always be right however can not
quantify a method more than "I just know mate!" A big believer in "the
computer can not replace the eye and feel angle" believes that the knee method
below puts you in a too high and vertical position that lacks power and lacks
comfort on longer rides. Al though we could not find a reliable measurable method
to his excellence, he says that if you drop a line from the tip of the seat down
it should be at least 40mm behind the BB centre. I believe after doing the knee
method it is worth checking your seat / BB offset but is not a reliable measure
due to so many different shape seats and different sit positions on each seat.
Too far back with the same stem reach will close your abdomen and require a sharper
back curve and can cause sore lower back and more restricted breathing.
Knee method
Put your bike in a stationary
trainer, and make sure to raise the front wheel so the bike is level. Position
the ball of your foot directly over the pedal axle. Take a small ride to relax
and settle into a natural position.
While
you continue to look ahead, slowly stop pedalling, and bring the cranks to rest
at horizontal, parallel to the ground. Check the position of your forward knee
relative to the pedal spindle —for a "neutral knee position," you’ll
be able to drop a plumb line or level from the little
hollow immediately below the outside your kneecap,
and have it run directly through the pedal spindle and ball of your foot below.
Remember to not raise or drop your heel or hip as you check this. Then, move the
saddle fore or aft, as need, to achieve this neutral position.
We correct the position by loosening the seat post saddle clamp bolt
and sliding the seat forwards or back until the line falls in the acceptable range.
The longer the femur, the more it should be "pushed back"
The neutral knee position serves
as a good starting point for most cyclists, although many adjust it from here:
long distance (stage) racers and mountain bikers often move the saddle back up
to 1cm, for heeling the pedal in climbs, and sprinters may move it forward for
toeing the pedal for faster pedal speed. Moving your vertical line in front of
the pedal spindle can result in pain in your knee and subsequent injury.
One more note on frame size and
geometry: if you cannot move the saddle enough to get your knee to the neutral
position, you should look for a frame with a different seat tube angle or different
frame size.
Finally, recheck
your saddle height. If you’ve moved your saddle forward or back, you’ve effectively
shortened or lengthened your saddle height, and will need to readjust it.